Laying mosaic tiles

The mosaic was chosen by the same manufacturer as the porcelain tiles on the floor. Rather, it is the same porcelain tile 1 cm thick but cut into 4.8×4.8 cm chips with a joint width of 2 mm. Italon Desert Beige 60x60cm and Petrol Dark 60x60cm were used here.

To calculate the thickness of the tile adhesive for accurate marking for laying tiles, the following recommendations exist. A putty knife with a tooth of 4 mm – the thickness of the adhesive layer when pressed 1-1.2 mm, a putty knife with a tooth of 6 mm – a layer thickness of 2-2.5 mm.

I chose the first option since the mosaic loves perfectly even bases and an extra glue game was simply not needed here. The surface is pre-primed for better adhesion of the adhesive to the base.

Before laying the mosaic, the mosaic sheets on the grid are applied to the box and are outlined with a pencil (be sure to check the horizon). After a rough check, you can start laying. In my case, the thickness of the mosaic was 1 cm and at the outer corners, the tile would overlap on one side with a lap offset of 1 cm when overlapping, which I considered unacceptable. Such a simple installation can often be found in office premises, or municipal institutions, where they do not bother with the quality. But we do it for ourselves. Therefore, I had to tackle the mosaic. Zausovka – this washed down tiles at 45 degrees at the junction angles, which allows you to get a 90-degree angle when joining two tiles. In addition to a more solid visual range, we hide the factory edges of the tiles, which have an uneven shape,

Zausovka process is quite complicated, especially for mosaics, where each chip is glued to the grid and there is no proper rigidity during processing. At first, I tried to do this using an electric tile cutter with a table angle of 45 degrees. The expected effect and quality could not be achieved. Porcelain chips.

On the Internet, I found an interesting way using angle grinders. Used it. As a result, everything turned out at a very high level. We turn the mosaic panel face down. We draw a line along the entire length from the edge of 1 cm to control the angle. We bring the edge of the tile to the edge of the workbench or chair so that nothing hangs. Cover with corrugated cardboard or something to soften the pressure on the tile. Then we put an even board. In my case, a piece of chipboard and clamp with clamps. Mosaic chips should not move. Next, we take an angle grinder (grinder) with speed control and a diamond blade with a solid edge for a dry saw. At speeds equal to those of a conventional tile cutter, 2800-3200 rpm. We begin to carefully cut the tile at an angle. We do not reach the edge of 1-1.5mm. Otherwise, you can break off the edge and ruin the entire burr.

The next step is to bring the rough cuts to a presentable look. For these purposes, I purchased a flexible segmented plate with diamond coating in the store. In common people, the “turtle.” Its operating principle is grinding. Used in the industry for grinding natural stones, granite, marble. To give a mirror gloss surface, they are used with a very fine grain (P5000 and even finer). For rough work, giving the workpiece the desired shape, use with the marking P50, P100. I was safe and chose size 100. But in the process, I realized that with P50 I would have done the job many times faster.

We perfect our workpieces with the help of ears. Minimum revolutions (2800 rpm). At high, the floppy disk will fly off the support plate (fastened with Velcro) or will quickly fail. Be sure to use a respirator, glasses and a vacuum cleaner. Very fine dust clogs everything around.

As a result, we get a very neat outer corner of the tile without displacements and an ugly end.

In order for the mosaic seems to be the same and not to dance during the laying of our mosaic rugs, I used a tricky technique. Since the width of the seam is 2mm between the chips. I bought crosses in 2 mm and scored with them all the crosshairs of the mosaic. He put the crosses inward to the very end, to the grid on which the mosaic is attached. As a result, the rugs themselves became more rigid, and the seams became the same size. All this facilitated the installation and allowed us to achieve high quality. The glue used white for mosaic and marble firm Ceresit CM115. You can any other manufacturer. White color prevents tile discoloration after laying. This is especially true for glass mosaics and marble.

It is fashionable to start grouting no later than 24 hours after laying the tiles. Dilute to a homogeneous creamy consistency and rub with a wide rubber grater. Along the way, remove the same grater. Let it dry for 15 minutes. Then with a well-wrung sponge without pressing, wipe the surface. We often rinse the sponge. The remaining plaque is removed with a soft rag after 4-5 hours. In the photo, the installation is partially erased by the layout.

The final stage is trimming around the pipes and the drain button on the tile cutter, as well as drilling holes for the studs with a water-cooled diamond crown.

It is recommended to lay the tiles from the middle of the button so that everything looks symmetrical. In my case, the main thing was that the mosaic chips at the outer corners were intact. In addition, the displacement of the toilet even 5 cm to the right would significantly complicate the approach to the bath. Therefore, the symmetry had to be sacrificed.



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