I make repairs in the bathroom. Since the bathroom was very small. 2.4 in length and 1.8 in width, it became necessary to install an installation system. A system was purchased from Grohe Rapid SL. This proven system completely suits me in quality.

Before installation, he took off the old floor (ceramic tile) which in some places was bobbed and was generally laid crookedly. For this work, I used a Bosch GBH 2-28 DFV rotary hammer and a blade chisel for removing tiles 2608690091.

Thanks to a quality tool, the work was done very quickly.

The next step was laid a new floor covering. I chose the Italian Rectified Porcelain Stoneware Desert Beige 60x60cm. Many people ask: “Is it possible to install large format tiles in small rooms? Will it look bad or ridiculous? ”

First, see the linear dimensions of your room. If they allow you to use large tiles without strong trimming and the use of narrow pieces, feel free to choose a large format.

Secondly, the large format of the floor tiles allows you to avoid a large number of seams and even minor differences in height if you were laying tiles 30×30 or 33×33 cm.

In my case, 4 whole tiles lay in length, 3 wide. Agree 12 is much better than 48.

Often people ask if it is possible to lay tiles seamlessly. If the tile is retittificate (has clear angles of 90 degrees without bevels and blockages) and has ideal dimensions (calibration), it can be laid with a minimum seam of 0.5 mm. I used instead of crosses for tile blades from building knives. After grouting, such a seam is practically not visible. A prerequisite for this method of installation, do not clog everything along the walls with adhesive mortar but leave gaps for the linear expansion of the tile. Moisture expansion of my coating ISO 10545-10 ≤ 0.1 (mm / m).

The tile pleased, bare feet do not feel even the slightest protrusions and drops

Next, we install the installation on an already perfectly flat base. Choose the desired distance from the wall. The manufacturer indicates a range from 130 to 230 mm. If you need to push it even further, regular fasteners can be increased by buying studs of the desired diameter in the store. It is only necessary to reliably counteract everything. In my case, I chose the distance taking into account the size of the mosaic tiles and 1.5 cm margin so that the subsequent installation of wall tiles on the wall does not overlap the mosaic chips. We make calculations very carefully. The quality of the fine finish will depend on this. We also take into account the thickness of the skin and the thickness of the tile adhesive. How to calculate the thickness of the tile adhesive, I will write below in the topic about laying tiles. In the layout of the pipe duct and installation, I used the Bosch GCL2-15 and GLL3X levels. The profile was used by Knauf. They are quite rigid (0.6 mm) and give the structure a solidity. He fastened it together with a cutter, which helped to avoid unnecessary hats from self-tapping screws.

The bottom of the installation (legs) is installed in the guide profile (50×50 mm). This will help us later in plating the installation with plaster fiber. We fix the frame to the floor through the holes in the legs and the profile with 10mm dowels from the kit and hexagonal screws. In porcelain stoneware, he easily drilled holes using crowns with diamond spraying from Praktika. Do not forget about water cooling. The crown very easily coped with the task 4 times and did not even lose its working appearance.

Before sheathe the resulting structure with gypsum fiber or moisture-resistant drywall, it is necessary to connect the sewer and bring water to the tank. After much deliberation, I decided to carry out the liner with pipes made of polypropylene. This is much more reliable than a flexible eyeliner. The main thing was to correctly solder the pipes, which I did. It should also be noted here that the necessary design must first be soldered and with the help of “American women” already connected to the tank and the water supply. High-quality soldering on weight is very, very difficult.

When trimming the sewer pipe, be sure to chamfer. 5 mm will be enough. This will prevent damage to the rubber bands in the pipes and facilitate the installation of sewers.

I made the sheathing of the box and the installation with 1 cm gypsum fiber. I cut it using a Bosch GST 14,4V-Li cordless jigsaw and a T118B-1 metal saw.

This process is dusty and it is better to have a vacuum cleaner on the grab

Gypsum fiber itself is denser than the gypsum board and just cutting it with an office knife smoothly, without creases, is not realistic. But there are pluses. When tightening the screws, it does not crumble and holds more reliably. Plus is not afraid of moisture. Fastened sheets of gypsum fiber with pre-drilling with a 3 mm drill. A smaller drill diameter did not fit. He took 2 mm and when screwing the self-tapping screw into the installation frame, he simply turned his head away from him. Used 2608577048 – Impact Control drill bit with a hex shank, 3mm, and Bosch GSR 12V-15 screwdriver. I even drilled a thick-walled frame without effort.

As the name of the topic suggests, the work was carried out in a residential apartment, where every day people use water in the kitchen, as well as a bathroom and toilet. This created significant difficulties. The installation was installed only after the box for pipes was ready, the connection was made with polypropylene and the profile guides were prepared outside the installation frame on the wall. Before that, there were periodic fittings and adjustments.

And the constant shutdown and connection of the existing toilet. After everything was mounted, the question arose of how to use the toilet. The pendant has not even been bought yet. The tile is not laid. And the drain height of the installation is higher than that of a conventional floor-mounted toilet with a horizontal outlet. From the piece of bit that I had left, a podium was built. The latter fastened to it with standard fasteners for installing the toilet. To connect the corrugation to the exit from the installation, I removed the rubber cuff from the corrugation, which is needed for a standard installation in 110 mm sewer pipes. Now, the resulting diameter of 90mm just went into the installation pipe. Water will have to be washed off manually at first.

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